Leicester is a city of which I have almost no direct experience. I’ve been to watch Burnley at Filbert Street on three occasions, but have only once actually ventured into the city centre. On that occasion I was in the throes of a particularly virulent cold/flu type thing, was feeling like death warmed up, and my recollections of the place are accordingly somewhat hazy. However, a little bit of research and some extremely helpful input from a friend who lives locally has revealed that there are, in fact, things to see and places to eat in Leicester.
History
Though not immediately obvious from first impressions, Leicester has quite a rich history, dating back to Roman times, when it was a fortified town on the Fosse Way, the military road running from Lincoln to Cirencester. In medieval times the city was the power base of big players the Earls of Leicester, the best known of whom was Simon de Montfort, who led an uprising against Henry III culminating in the first ever English parliament being convened in 1265. Its main raison d’etre in recent centuries has been as a major centre of the hosiery trade, an industry which attracted thousands of immigrants from the Indian sub-continent to settle in the city. Today Leicester has the highest proportion of non-white residents anywhere in England and, mercifully, seems to have largely avoided the kind of racially motivated strife that has afflicted certain other towns and cities. Anyway, that’s enough history; here’s a few things you can see and do:
Museums and galleries
If art is your bag, you could try the City Gallery in Granby Street (Tel: 0116 254 0595 for details). Alternatively, the New Walk Museum & Art Gallery in New Walk, which promises six permanent displays including the country’s largest collection of German expressionist paintings, as well as works by Walter Sickert, Jacob Epstein and Stanley Spencer. Telephone 0116 255 4100 for further details.
There are several other museums, including the Newarke House Museum in the Newarke, a museum dedicated to the social history of Leicester from 1480 to the present. Phone 0116 247 3222 for opening times. The Guildhall in Guildhall Lane is a Grade 1 listed building of great historical importance to Leicester. Visit the Mayor's parlour and see the civic murals and the old library, and, not to be missed, the police cells!
You could also visit Belgrave Hall and Gardens in Church Road. This comprises a Queen Anne house dating from 1709 with its elegant rooms, plus botanical gardens. Tel: 0116 266 6590. We would also like to have recommended the Guru Nanak museum illustrating the history of the Sikh people, not least for its quite wonderful address of Holy Bones (honestly!) but unfortunately it only opens on Thursdays. If you want something more modern, then how about the National Space Science Centre on Exploration Drive. This is a new £46 million Millennium Landmark Project featuring interactive challenges, space theatre, Challenger Learning Centre, Space Connection Trail, real space hardware plus restaurant and souvenir shop. Telephone 0116 253 0811 for further details or try their website.
If you just want to chill, then the Abbey Park with its Chinese peace garden and boating lake might be just the place for some pre-match contemplation. It wouldn’t be right to omit a mention of the Measham Museum, so far as we know the only museum dedicated to the exploits of former Burnley full back Ian Measham. Actually, I made that last bit up - it’s really just a small museum of local history located in the nearby village of Measham. Oh well...
Shopping
Leicester’s main attraction on the shopping front is its market, which is apparently the largest market of its kind in Europe, with over 300 stalls selling everything from fresh produce to jewellery and clothing. The Market Centre provides an additional four floors of goods.
Cafes and tea shops
The following eateries come recommended:
BOSSA
110 Granby Street
(On the way to town from the railway station. Toasties for £1!)
CASTLE ROCK CAFE
4-6 Oxford Street
(A good, relaxed atmosphere.)
MRS BRIDGES TEA ROOMS
17 Loseby Lane
(Old fashioned, as the name suggests, in a nice area of town near St Martin’s Square where ‘boutique type’ shops are found.)
YO-YO'S DINER
25 High Street
(Outside Shires shopping centre in the middle of town.)
Bars
Now, since this is, strictly speaking, a non-drinkers’ guide, we’re only recommending the Cafe Bruxelles on the High Street on the strength of its good value lunch menu and interesting ceiling frescoes and not because of its choice of Belgian beers, oh no. The Fat Cat Café Bar at 41 Belvoir Street looks like a small bar from the outside, but has a large bar area with restaurant area towards the back.
More information
For those of you craving more info about the city of Leicester, this website may be of use.
And finally...
The London Clarets Research Bureau would like to acknowledge the invaluable assistance of Leicester resident Dr Jennifer Marshall in the compilation of this guide.
