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Ipswich

"It is very distressing to me, sir, to give this information," said Miss Witherfield,
"but I fear a duel is going to be fought here."

"Here, ma'am?" said the magistrate. "Where, ma'am?"

"In Ipswich."

"In Ipswich, ma'am! A duel in Ipswich!" said the magistrate, perfectly aghast at the notion. "Impossible, ma'am; nothing of the kind can be contemplated in this town, I am persuaded. Bless my soul, ma'am, are you aware of the activity of our local magistracy? Do you happen to have heard, ma'am, that I rushed into a prize-ring on the fourth of May last, attended by only sixty special constables; and, at the hazard of falling a sacrifice to the angry passions of an infuriated multitude, prohibited a pugilistic contest between the Middlesex Dumpling and the Suffolk Bantam? A duel in Ipswich, ma'am! I don't think--I do not think," said the magistrate, reasoning with himself, "that any two men can have the hardihood to plan such a breach of the peace, in this town."

The Pickwick Papers, Charles Dickens.

We did, of course, play them last season, but unfortunately this was a game cost me by Ipswich's absurd involvement in the UEFA Cup, having qualified under the 'fair play' rule. Doubtless such a comfort when you've just been relegated to be rewarded for going down without a fight. Anyway, the fact that Ipswich were in this wretched contest, albeit for non-footballing reasons, resulted in our match against them being shunted around the calendar hither and thither until it inevitably landed on a night when I'd booked a holiday. Some admirable stalwarts caught in a similar position flew back from Italy, took in the game and then caught another flight out to resume their holiday, but I had to settle for glugging rioja in a bar while checking texts.

Not to despair, for I checked with a couple of our top drinkers who did go last season, and can therefore make a few sensible suggestions, as follow below. Be warned that pubs seem to keep funny opening hours in Ipswich, so if any of these are closed in the afternoons, don't blame us.

The Greyhound is apparently a "nice little boozer" selling good quality Adnams. It's on Henley Road, by Christchurch Park to the north of the town centre.

Opinion was rather more mixed on the Milestone Beer House on Woodridge Road. This big pub is said to be rather food-oriented, although with a good range of beers. Both were good when we played there but one of my researchers went back for non-football reasons and was rather less impressed. It's quite central, near the Regent Theatre, and they have a website.

Norther still you have the Dales on Dales Road. This is well off the beaten track - it's really some way out - and something of an estate pub with a big pool room to the fore. Compensation for your trouble may be sought in "tremendous" pints of Woodforde's Wherry, I'm told - it's certainly a superb beer.

Devotees of the divine Fat Cat in Norwich will be interested to know that it has a kitten in Ipswich, also called the Fat Cat. Lots of beer in a pleasant, calm and quiet pub is promised. Apparently it's not quite as good as the Norwich version, but then few places are, and it has won Suffolk pub of the year more than once. As in Norwich, the emphasis seems to be on stocking local beers. This must be worth a visit. See their website for more. The pub is some way east of the town centre in an area ridiculously marked 'California' on my A-Z, on Spring Road. Looks like a cab job, although I'm told town centre traffic is quite appallingly slow moving.

There was also, I'm told, a reasonable Hogshead in the centre selling a fine pint of Caledonian Deuchar's IPA. I can't look this up because the Hogshead site doesn't exist any more, and as the chain is being re-branded to de-emphasise real ale, who knows? For those wanting something to eat as well as a pint, the two local Wetherspoon's are the imaginatively named Wetherspoon's on Corn Hill right in the town centre and the Cricketers, a stone's throw further north on Crown Street.

In addition to this there are a couple of supporters' sites with some pub information. Those Were the Days is Ipswich's Rivals Net site. These are always worth a look as they generally have some ground, food and drink information. It isn't easy to find, but click here. Although I think I'd give their 'food guide' a miss. The Pride of Anglia is a pretty decent site, and they have an away fans' guide.

For rail travellers, good news is that the ground and the station are quite close - you can easily see the ground from the station - with the town centre a further walk beyond the ground. As for Portman Road, it seems to have had quite a lot of work recently as part of some poncy 'Ipswich Village' complex. For the extortionate price of £23, away supporters get the crappiest bit, naturally, but at least the Cobbold Stand is named after a decent beer, sort of.

Tolly Cobbold were the local brewers, and the Cobbolds were highly involved in running Ipswich Town. Sadly the brewery went into a long period of decline, and despite valiant attempts to revive it in recent years, and was recently taken over by Ridley’s of Essex. The former brewery is apparently a fine Victorian building on the bank of the river Orwell, but beer is brewed there no more and their Suffolk ales are now produced in Chelmsford. The Brewery Tap, which I assume is still there, is said to be worth a visit.

Tolly Cobbolds aside, you’re going to get stuck with a lot of beer from regional giant Greene King of nearby Bury St Edmunds. They have pubs all over East Anglia, but unfortunately their beer is wearyingly bland, as I may have mentioned once or twice before in these guides. On the plus side, you should also get plenty from Adnams - - Southwold-based breweries of fine, flavoursome beers.

Don't know what the beer will be like there, but the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) maintains a list of pubs which have outstanding interiors, and this includes the "best surviving inter-war pub in Britain" in the form of the Margaret Catchpole on Cliff Lane, which might therefore be worth a look.

Ipswich CAMRA has a bright yellow website, which should give you some further ideas. It includes a pub news section.

Ideas for non-drinking things to do in Ipswich can be found on the council website. Apparently they have a Tudor ‘Ancient House’ on Buttermarket with elaborate plasterwork, and the Christchurch Mansion on Northgate Street is said to be well worth a visit, boasting fine parkland and paintings from the overrated Constable and excellent Gainsborough.

I'm looking forward to my first visit, the findings of which will be reflected the next time this guide is revised. I should say, rather, that I'm looking forward to the pubs. I'm not looking forward to giving Ipswich my money, especially £23 of it, which is a disgusting price to charge for first division football. I do tend to regard them as essentially a bunch of cheats who ballsed things up by getting relegated and then played the administration tactic to perfection. The reason the rules have been changed to penalise clubs who go into administration in future is because of clubs like Ipswich who walked away from having to pay for their failure at the price of five pence in the pound. For Clarets, of course, this is personal, for no sooner had they come out of administration, having ditched 95 per cent of their debts, then they snatched Driss Diallo for more money than we, working our balls off to avoid administration and foolishly committed to paying 100 pence in the pound, could possibly offer. Oh, I'm angry again just thinking about it. Well, this will be one of those occasions when they will get the price of my admission and no more. I'll find my food and drink elsewhere. Or perhaps I'll ask for that pie and programme... but only offer them five pence in the pound for it. After all, that's a fair deal in these parts, isn't it?

Firmo
With thanks to Paddy and Woody

Last visited: never
Last updated: October 2003

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